Hong Kong-born Alan Yau, the endlessly creative force behind such era-defining concepts as minimalist noodle canteen Wagamama (est. 1992), high-end Chinese Hakkasan (est. 2001) and fancy dim-sumerie Yauatcha (est. 2004). Yau has been busy of late, with his Turkish pide place, Babaji, his “pub” the Duck and Rice and now Park Chinois all debuting within a year of each other. Directeur de Restaurant is Adnan Ozkara (ex-Hakkasan) with Kevin Lansdown, as GM and Lee Che Liang in the kitchen.
Ten years (at least) in the making, Park Chinois harks back to the glamour of 1930s Shanghai, when dinner and dancing went hand in hand. Yau and French interior designer Jacques Garcia (Hôtel Costes) have recreated this world, or a fantasy version of it, so lavishly one could almost be on a film set. Were the credits to roll after supper, there would be special thanks to the costume department for the waiters’ white jackets; to the music coordinator for the house bands, and the set designers whose opulent mise-en-scène inspired by 18th-century French restaurants and featuring extraordinary French silks, sumptuous red carpets and sparkling chandeliers, simply dazzles.